Whipcord Gallery

I’ve been busy since I started playing with whipcord.  Here are some of the different looks I’ve been able to create.  (Please pardon the over-exposure of some of the shots.  My only camera is my phone, and I’m still learning how to adjust things.)


Simple, 4-strand cords with a 3:1 color scheme produce a speckled cord.

Left – Three black to one red.

Right – Three turquoise to one yellow.


4-strand, single-pass cords, but with twists inserted to periodically change the pattern.  The twists that change the pattern are seamless in the finished cord.

Left – After every 10 sets of passes I swapped two of my strings to alternate between spiral and stripe patterns.

Middle and Right – After every 10 sets of passes, I inserted a double-pass.  This caused the direction of the spiral to reverse.  (It’s much easier to see on the black/white cord than the purple/yellow.  In person, the purple/yellow is actually quite nice.)


4-strand striped cords in three colors are great for showcasing a dominant color with two secondary colors.

Left – Single-passes.  Two black stripes with green and white passing each other for the other stripes.

Middle and Right – Single/Double-passes.  The dominant color (red in the middle cord, yellow in the cord on the right) is single-passed, and the other two are double-passed.  Notice  in the middle cord how the black is more prominent at the top, but the white shows more toward the bottom.  This is due to the uneven pattern of stitches formed by a double-pass – a larger stitch and a smaller one that wraps around it.  When slynging yarn, these cords make lovely trim or couching cord with a dominant, secondary, and tertiary color.  The secondary and tertiary color is determined by which side you attach face-up on your project, as they will be the opposite on the flipped side.


4-strand spiral cords in three colors.  The dominant color is still evident in the solid spiral twisting around the other colors, but it’s not as striking as the stripes.  But it’s still a pretty cord.  All of these are single-passes.


Double-passed cords.

Left – Double-passed, 6-string stripes in blue, white, and yellow.  A simple color scheme, but a deeply textured cord.

Middle – Double-passed, 4-string “spiral” in blue and green.  The string arrangement on the hands would produce a spiral if it was single-passed, but since the double-pass puts the string back on its original side, the color never carries around the cord.  It does make a neat herringbone pattern, though.

Left – Double-passed, 4-string, tri-color in white (2), purple (1), and black (1).  The white strings were in one hand, passing with the black and purple strings in the other hand.  This would produce a three-color spiral if it was done with single-passes.


6-string cords.  The string arrangements for each of these cords are shown below.

Left – In-and-Out in blue, red, and black.  I describe this pattern in a previous post.

Right – An embattled cord in black and yellow made with single-passes in an asterisk pattern.  Due to the CW twist of the black 1-4 pair (the other pairs are CCW), it looks like yellow embattlements on a black field.  If the yellow pair had the contrary twist (i.e. twined in the opposite direction of the other two pairs), it would look like black embattlements on a yellow field.


These are just a few of the looks you can achieve with whipcords.  There is much more creativity available to you than the basic stripes and spirals.


Distaff Holster

One way of supporting your whipcord distaff is by tucking your skirt or shirt into a belt and  anchoring the end in the resulting fold.  But I didn’t particularly want to risk poking a hole into or skewing the weave of my clothes.  So I devised a small holster that I could easily hang on my belt.  Having dealt with plenty of hangy-downy-things on my belts before, I also wanted to be able to remove it without having to completely take the belt off.


How To

I have a 1 ½” wide belt, and my holster will work for up to a 2″ belt.  If your belt is significantly wider, you can adjust the fastener as needed.

Start with a 16″ x 2 ½” strip of a heavy cloth like trigger or duck.  (I used a piece of trigger twice that size, and doubled it over to make finished edges without having to hem.)

Fold up the lower 4 ½” to form the holster pocket and stitch it down on either side.  Just a reminder – don’t sew the mouth closed at the top.


I used a button and button hole, spaced as shown above, to make the belt loop.

And that’s all there was to it.  It supports and stabilizes the distaff really well while standing or sitting, and is super convenient to use.  Feel free to get creative with yours.  Embroider it, paint it, or tool one in leather.  Or keep it simple and practical.  As long as it serves its purpose.